What should go in your fridge?
Britain is in love with huge \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'American-style\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\' fridges. But just because you have the room doesn\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'t mean you should pack it with food, says Tim Hayward
How do you store your perishables? Tells us on the food blog
Wednesday April 9, 2008
The Guardian
A fridge. Photograph: Graham Turner |
Then the Americans arrived. We had already glimpsed them in imported sitcoms: vast, cavernous hangars of fridges with wide-spaced, well-lit shelves, groaning with Budweiser, leftover Chinese food in bucket-shaped boxes and orange juice that was drunk as profligately as squash. Over-stuffed and then, all at once, over here.
Demand rose and manufacturers such as Samsung and Maytag lunged at the opportunity, introducing new \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"American-style\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\" fridges. That word \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"style\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\" is important.
Consumer research showed we wanted fridges that were taller than us - but our kitchens, units and even doors couldn\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'t cope with the size of imported models so slightly smaller versions were made for the UK market.
According to market research group, Mintel, sales of \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"larder\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\" fridges - tall, with no icebox - or the even more bloated \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"side-by-side\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\" type with adjacent freezer wing, have entirely outstripped sales of under-the-counter models. A fact borne out by the presence of an entire section dedicated to \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"American-style\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\" fridges on the John Lewis website.
Researchers attribute this trend to both fashion - fitted kitchens are no longer in vogue - and the amount of cumbersomely boxed chilled meals we consume. And now the government waste reduction body, the Waste & Resources Action Programme (Wrap), is recommending we store all fresh produce in the fridge so it keeps longer, because UK consumers throw away a staggering 4.4m apples a day, and fruit and veg accounts for 40% of all food waste.
But is the recommended fridge temperature of below 5C necessarily best for keeping all food appetisingly fresh? Do we really need to store enough perishable goods to fill an American-style fridge at such a low temperature? A domestic fridge dries food out, hermetically seals smells and flavours together and - even though today\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'s fridge is, on average, twice as fuel efficient as one bought 10 years ago - consumes significant amounts of energy. I talked to a wide range of culinary and food hygiene experts to find out what we should and shouldn\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'t be keeping in our fridges.
Cheese: According to conventional culinary wisdom, good cheese is a living thing that needs to breathe good air, maybe sweat a little. People have been hanged, drawn and quartered at north London dinner parties for serving cheeses that have been cruelly incarcerated in the fridge. In fact, according to cheese guru Patricia Michelson, owner of north London\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'s La Fromagerie, although cheese should be served at room temperature, it can be refrigerated if allowed to breathe under cover of a damp cloth. But be careful: its flavour can be tainted by that of other foods and, of course, some of the stronger cheeses will return the favour - camembert trifle anyone?
Butter: The Brits favour uncultured butter, which becomes rancid very quickly if not refrigerated. Unfortunately, refrigeration also gives butter the spreading qualities of a housebrick. Domestic arguments over keeping butter either fresh or soft are certainly to blame for the popularity of \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"spreadable\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\" butters - made tractable with vegetable oil or air bubbles. More civilised nations prefer cultured butters made from soured milk, which have a delicious, rich flavour, often with elements of fresh grass or caramel. They also keep well at low room temperatures. Sadly, this is impossible to get in the UK, though a good, salted, raw milk butter will last longer than most.
Eggs: One of the triumphs of supermarket logistics is that most eggs now take around two days to get from the chicken to your basket, which means that we get fresher eggs than ever before. A fresh, free-range egg should last beautifully at room temperature for at least a week but, with the ever-present risk of salmonella, all authorities now recommend keeping them refrigerated. Those racks in the fridge door are the worst place to store eggs - the constant shaking thins the whites, and the smells and flavours of other foods can penetrate the shell.
Make sure you buy fresh eggs as you need them, keep them in an airtight container on a shelf in the fridge and eat within a week. Refrigeration can make eggs last for ages without \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"going off\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\" so many people buy them in bulk and end up eating perfectly safe but horribly stale eggs weeks later.
Meat: Although meat needs to be at room temperature before cooking, it should always be refrigerated if it is not going to be cooked as soon as you get it home. And store it on the bottom shelf so no juices can drip on to other food.
Fruit: Fruit from temperate climates, apples for example, can be refrigerated but fruit from warmer countries can only be stored successfully at around 10C, so a domestic fridge can wreak all sorts of havoc. Bananas go black (though they remain edible); avocados go dark but stop softening and end up being the colour and texture of a hand grenade. Melons develop black spots. Tomatoes will respond to the fridge with an exhausted sigh and almost immediately become mealy and unappetising. All fruit can be stored in a fruit bowl or basket on the counter - but be sure to store the bananas away from other produce. They release ethylene, which can cause other fruit around them to overripe.
Vegetables: Like fruit, veg from warm climates gain nothing from chilling. Marrows, courgettes, peppers, cucumbers and beans all become mushy or blackened much faster in a domestic fridge and all should be kept out in the bowl with the fruit. If, for some reason, your home lacks a root cellar (which most households relied upon for cool storage in the pre-fridge era), mushrooms and root veg - potatoes, parsnips and carrots etc - should be kept at room temperature and protected from light in a paper or cloth sack. Putting potatoes in the fridge can increase the amount of sugar they contain, which could lead to higher levels of a carcinogenic chemical called acrylamide when the potatoes are baked, fried or roasted at high temperatures.
Leftovers: Leftover tinned food can be kept in the fridge for a short while but must be transferred to a clean, airtight container. Exposure to the air means that the food can become contaminated through contact with the material in the can\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'s lining if it is not removed. This applies just as much to the cat\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'s lunch as to your baked beans.
Miscellaneous: Honey, cooking oils, peanut butter and tahini will congeal in the fridge. Bread, cake and other baked products will lose moisture and take on a rubbery texture rather than going hard and stale. Chocolate develops an unsightly sugar bloom - that white film is a result of condensation, which makes the sugar dissolve and recrystalise.
Ultimately, bear in mind that a fridge inhibits the action of enzymes and bacteria that make food go bad. Unfortunately, some of the most luxurious foods rely for flavour on the very enzymatic and bacterial processes that the chilling prevents. One person\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'s \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"going off\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\" is another\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'s \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\"ripening\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\". The fridge enables us to keep food longer but shouldn\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\'t stop us buying fresh, rotating stock and using things while they are still at their best. One of the few advantages of supermarkets is that they can get food to us quickly - if we then stick it in a home morgue and wait days to eat it we lose even that benefit.
什么应该放进你的冰箱?
英国人喜欢美国式的大冰箱。Tim Hayward说,那只是因为你有足够的空间,而并不代表你一定要把食物全部放进去里面。
你是怎样储藏容易腐烂的食物呢?可以在food blog这里告诉我们
2008年4月9日,星期三 The Guardian
20年前,我们没有真正地想象过现在的冰箱是怎样的。那时候的冰箱一般像碗橱一样小,而且有点异味。它们有一个制冷室,里面通常会有一块大冰块结在制冰盘和芯片上,而且在晚上会不时地发出异常的噪声。
然后美国人的生活进入我们的视线。我们已经从进口的连续喜剧看到过它们:巨大的,像车库般广阔的冰箱,一打开冰箱门,里面有发亮的架子,还有百威啤酒碰撞着发出嘎吱的声音,然后吃剩的中餐放在桶型的盒子里面,和狼吞虎咽喝剩的橙汁随便放在那里,就在那一刻,全部塞在那里面。
获得rose认证(欧洲关于环保方面的认证,应为roths认证)的制造商,如三星和Maytag(美国老牌家电企业)介绍新的美国式冰箱时说到,“风格”2字很重要。
对消费者的研究显示,我们想要比我们高的冰箱。但是我们的厨房、单元甚至门口不能与进口的冰箱的尺寸相匹配,因此英国市场上售卖的,是经过改良的略小的冰箱。
根据市场调查小组结果显示, 销售无冰格的高大型食品类冰箱和更宽大的带门翼并排冰柜的Mintel的销售额远远高于那些私下出售的型号。这个事实在John Lewis网页上关于美国式冰箱的全程报道中得到验证。
研究人员把这种趋势归因于潮流(刚好大小的厨房不再流行)和我们消费大量的大盒装的冷冻食物。现在政府要减少浪费,开展了一个废物回收的项目。这个项目建议我们把所有新鲜的食物放在冰箱内贮藏,因为英国的消费者平均每天扔掉了4,400,000个苹果,在所有浪费的食物中水果和蔬菜占了40%。
但是,建议冰箱的温度低于5℃,就一定是对所有食物的保鲜效果最好吗?我们确实需要用这么多容易腐败的食物,把我们的低温美式冰箱填满吗?一个家用冰箱会使食物变干,密封会使冰箱的气味和食物的风味混合在一起,但是,今天的冰箱的功率平均是10年前的2倍,消费者更重视节省了大量的能源。我咨询了很多烹饪和食品卫生方面的专家,对哪些食物是该放冰箱的,哪些食物是不应该放进冰箱有了了解。
芝士:传统烹饪认为,好的芝士就像一个有生命的东西,需要呼吸新鲜的空气,可能是需要稍微出一点汗吧。在伦敦北部的宴会上,会供应那些从冷库冷藏过的芝士,这些芝士在冷藏前已经被人们处理过(悬挂,划分并分成4等分)。事实上,北伦敦La Fromagerie店的店主Patricia Michelson(一位资深的芝士制造师傅)说,虽然芝士在室温下食用,但是吃剩的可以允许用湿布盖着它冷藏保存。但是要小心的是,其他食物的气味会混杂到芝士里面去,产生串味,当然,有些质量好的芝士能够恢复风味,有谁尝过花时间等待camembert(camembert是法国的一种软质芝士,用法国地名camembert命名)恢复风味吗?
牛油:英国人喜欢新鲜的牛油,如果不冷藏,它会很快变坏。但不幸的是,冷藏也会给牛油带来严重的质量问题,令它变成硬砖。国内的关于如何使保持牛油既新鲜而又柔软的讨论,归因于易涂开牛油的流行,使用植物油或者气泡令牛油变得更容易加工了。大部分发达国家的人比较喜欢一种用发酸牛奶制作的牛油,因为它富有风味,而且常常会有鲜草或者焦糖的气味,非常好吃。他们还把它放在低温下保藏。可悲的是,尽管这种质量好的,盐渍的过牛油,能比大多数其他的牛油存放更久,但它不可能进入英国的市场。
鸡蛋:超市物流链成功的地方之一是,大部分鸡蛋从母鸡产蛋到你的购物篮里面只需要2天左右,这意味着我们买到更新鲜的鸡蛋。一只新鲜的自由放养的鸡下的蛋,应该可以在室温下完好地存放至少一周,然而因为沙门氏菌的存在,专家都建议把它们放在冰箱里面。冰箱门上的架子是最不适合放鸡蛋的地方,因为经常震动会使蛋白变稀,而且其他食物的气味可以穿透蛋壳而进入鸡蛋里面。
如果你需要的话,买一些新鲜的鸡蛋,然后把它放到一个密封的容器里面,再放到冰箱的架子上面,但务必在一周内吃完。冰箱能够延长鸡蛋的食用期,避免人们在购买大量的鸡蛋后,因为长达数周内没有食用完而变质。
肉类:虽然肉类在烹饪前需要在室温下存放,但是一旦你买了它回家,而又不打算煮熟它的时候,你应该把它放在冰箱里面。而且应该把它放到最底层,好让它的汁不会滴到其他食物上。
水果:温带的水果,如苹果,可以放在冰箱中保藏。但是一些来自更暖地区的水果就只能够在10℃左右保藏,否则会冻伤。因此,家用冰箱能带来各种灾难。在冰箱中保藏时,香蕉会变黑(虽然依然能够食用);牛油果(又名鳄梨)会变暗但不会变软,最终颜色和质地都变到跟手榴弹一样;甜瓜会产生黑点;而番茄会以一声叹息回应冰箱的冷酷,然后马上变软,看到绝对令人失去食欲。所有的水果都能够装在水果盘或者水果篮里,然后放到柜台上,但是要确保把香蕉与其他水果分开。因为香蕉释放乙烯,导致其他水果过熟。
蔬菜:和水果一样,来自温暖地区的蔬菜并不能从冷藏中获得什么好处。葫芦、南瓜、胡椒、黄瓜和豆类在家用冰箱中贮藏都会很快地变得柔软或者发黑,他们应该和水果一起放到盘子里,而不应该放在冰箱里。如果,因为某些原因,你的房子没有地窖(在没有冰箱的年代,大部分家庭都用它来冷藏食物),那么蘑菇和土豆、防风草、胡萝卜等块根类植物应该放在室温内,并且用纸包或者麻袋包着避光保存。把土豆放在冰箱保藏,会使它里面的糖份大量的增加,这会导致这些土豆在焙烤,高温加热或油炸时候,放出的丙烯酰胺增加,而丙烯酰胺是一种致癌物质。
剩菜:吃剩的罐头食品可以放在冰箱内保存一段短的时间,但一定要把食物转移到干净密封的容器中。如果没有转移这些食物,并且与空气接触,这些食物就很可能会被罐内的金属涂料渗出污染。这样做适用于猫的午餐同样适用于你的烘豆。
其他:蜂蜜、烹调油、花生油和芝麻酱会凝结在冰箱内。面包、蛋糕等焙烤类的食物会失水变干而变韧,但不会变硬和腐败。巧克力表面会形成一层难看的白霜,那是糖返砂的结果(即溶解的糖再次结晶的结果)。
最后,记住冰箱能够抑制酶和细菌的作用,从而延迟食品变质。但是,很遗憾的说,有一部分很昂贵的食品是依靠酶和细菌的作用,使它产生那些特殊的风味,而冷藏会阻碍这些反应的发生。所以,有得必有失。冰箱可以使我们的食物保存更久,但不应该成为我们不断购买新鲜的食物,并且在它质量最好时食用的障碍。超级市场几乎唯一的好处就是,他们能为我们提供新鲜的食物,但是,如果我们把食物买回家,然后扔到冰箱里面放好上几天的话,我们无法吃到新鲜的食物了。
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